Author(s)

B.A. O'Connor

Abstract

A simple multi-frequency model of beach profile change is described and applied to prototype-scale data collected during a series of mono-frequency and random wave tests?. Fourier analysis is used to extract model parameters and shows the presence of a dominant bed level change harmonic for mono-frequency waves that is amplified in a resonant manner once it matches the breaking wavelength of the incident waves. The model also shows the complex, time dependent nature of diffusion coefficients used in long-term simulation models*. Results for random wave tests starting from a Dean-type* beach profile show that resonant effects do not occur and that only small beach changes occur at a slow rate. Using the idea of an impulse function, the model is extended to predict beach level changes with good results. 1 Introduction The protectio

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