WIT Press

Modelling Of Wave Transformation Across The Inner Surf Zone And Swash Oscillations On Beaches

Price

Free (open access)

Volume

43

Pages

10

Published

1999

Size

715 kb

Paper DOI

10.2495/CE990081

Copyright

WIT Press

Author(s)

P. Bonneton, S. Vincent, H. Dupuis and R. Pedreros

Abstract

A numerical model based on a high order non-oscillatory MacCormack TVD scheme is presented for the solution of the non-linear Saint Venant equa- tions in surf and swash zones. A comparison with measurements of surface elevations on a beach (True Vert Beach, France), shows that the model is capable of predicting accurately the transformation of irregular waves in the surf zone. 1 Introduction Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones plays a major role in sediment transport and beach evolution. In the inner surf zone spilling breakers have bore-like shape. Li

Keywords