Modelling Of Wave Transformation Across The Inner Surf Zone And Swash Oscillations On Beaches
Price
Free (open access)
Transaction
Volume
43
Pages
10
Published
1999
Size
715 kb
Paper DOI
10.2495/CE990081
Copyright
WIT Press
Author(s)
P. Bonneton, S. Vincent, H. Dupuis and R. Pedreros
Abstract
A numerical model based on a high order non-oscillatory MacCormack TVD scheme is presented for the solution of the non-linear Saint Venant equa- tions in surf and swash zones. A comparison with measurements of surface elevations on a beach (True Vert Beach, France), shows that the model is capable of predicting accurately the transformation of irregular waves in the surf zone. 1 Introduction Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones plays a major role in sediment transport and beach evolution. In the inner surf zone spilling breakers have bore-like shape. Li
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